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Awesome SRP Filters for the Inspire 1 {VIDEO}

I've answered your questions multiple times. Read my responses again. If you don't want what the ND gives you then don't use it. I don't know any videographer that shoots the same subject all the time, so even if you don't want to shoot at 1080p60 at 120 shutter for action, you might want to shoot at 4K30p at 60 shutter for something else.
 
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So you are agreeing that shooting an action sport where tricks are done in the seconds (1-2) that the indie motion blurred affect, given by a higher stop ND filter, which are suitable for land scape and indie style films will look smudged or blurred compared to a lower stopped ND filter with a higher shutter speed?
 
What you really need for fast action shooting...
...is an ND4 or ND2 (for good shutter speed) with a CP filter (to reduce glare)... in my opinion... o_O
That combo is not offered by SRP... :(

This thread started out as a report out on a product that has a use under many conditions...
Shooting fast action is likely not a good use for these filters unless the blur effect is what you want...
Please stop the argument and just agree to disagree... ;)
 
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So you are agreeing that shooting an action sport where tricks are done in the seconds (1-2) that the indie motion blurred affect, given by a higher stop ND filter, which are suitable for land scape and indie style films will look smudged or blurred compared to a lower stopped ND filter with a higher shutter speed?
No I do not agree. You obviously aren't a videographer. The 180 degree rule applies to action sports too. For 60fps your shutter should be 120. You may break the rule to taste. You will get more smear at 30fps 60 shutter. It's fine if you disagree with me. I suggest you do a little googling on the subject, or take some classes. Everything you need to know is in my first response to you. This filter is for people that want to shoot at the proper shutter speeds. You can't do that with the stock DJI filter. If it doesn't apply to you, then it is not for you. Arguing isn't going to change the physics of videography.
 
What you really need for fast action shooting is an ND4 or ND2 (for fast shutter speed) with a CP filter (to reduce glare)... in my opinion... o_O
That combo is not offered by SRP... :(

Please stop the fighting and just agree to disagree... ;)
Actually SRP does have some ND4/CP filters, but not many. If you contact them they will sell you one. There just isn't enough demand to make a lot right now. And Yes, just agree to disagree! I'm not responding any more to someone who argues over and over and over and over...
 
You have clearly never filmed any action sport then.

Cant wait to see what "motion blur" footage of wakeboarding looks like.

So back to my original post, I feel that a polarized or like someone said ND 2 / 4 / CP would be the best.

Does SRP sell that ND4/CP to everyone? because that seems like the best lens for action sports.
 
Because the advice is wrong. Maybe i didnt explain properly on my subject which yes remains the same everytime i shoot.

Maybe he didnt understand my subject as he did ask waht im filming at 25mph... Sorry i made this forum active.

I think im going to pick up the nd4 / cp filter as less glare might be what i need.
 
If trolling is asking question about a video you posted with a follow up comment about "unnatural looks" then sure.

What i want to know is why would an ND filter that is so stopped down that it allows me to shoot 1080@60 at 1/120 would benefit me if im shooing 1080@60 with the mind set of slow ing the footage (or parts of it) to 30p, where i coudl see more benefit from shooting at something 1/240 or higher so that the slowed footage its just a blur of action on the screen.


The best way I can explain this is:
Frame Rate is how many frames per second.
If you want to shoot 60 frames per second, which means taking 60 pictures every second, every 1/60th of a second your shutter opens & closes
Shutter speed is how fast you take each picture or how long the shutter is open
if you do this at 1/8000 of a second each time, you leave huge gaps between pictures (7860th's sec) and the playback looks choppy or jello'd
180 shutter is when your shutter speed is twice your frame rate (or close to 2x),
this leaves much smaller gaps between pictures, which is what we refer to as motion blur

This is the preferred way to shoot for cinematic look.

If you want to show your footage in slo mo, having the proper shutter speed will help tremendously.

You can play around with the settings and see what you like, but there's very little room to argue against proper ND's

Using the proper ND for the conditions, allows for much better protection of exposure (highlights & shadows, or whites & blacks)

ND's can best be explained as sunglasses for your camera
just like us, when it's bright out and you slip on sunglasses, you can see more detail, if they're strong enough ND
Put the proper ND on your camera, and the detail comes to life

Picking proper ND, I use the sunglass technique and look thru the filters until one shows most detail to my eye, might be right, I'm not sure, but my footage is much better that way

Check out my youtube channel, Primo _NYC (there's a space between the o & _ )
I shot some high speed cruisng on a Lake with a Malibu Wakesetter with Rennat's ND'S (
)
and some slower speed wakesurfing with stock ND (
) and the detail is much better with the ND32 on a bright day, very evident on the back pad of the boat, can't see the grey detail with the stock filter at all

Good luck, have fun!!
 
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The best way I can explain this is:
Frame Rate is how many frames per second.
If you want to shoot 60 frames per second, which means taking 60 pictures every second, every 1/60th of a second your shutter opens & closes
Shutter speed is how fast you take each picture or how long the shutter is open
if you do this at 1/8000 of a second each time, you leave huge gaps between pictures (7860th's sec) and the playback looks choppy or jello'd
180 shutter is when your shutter speed is twice your frame rate (or close to 2x),
this leaves much smaller gaps between pictures, which is what we refer to as motion blur

This is the preferred way to shoot for cinematic look.

If you want to show your footage in slo mo, having the proper shutter speed will help tremendously.

You can play around with the settings and see what you like, but there's very little room to argue against proper ND's

Using the proper ND for the conditions, allows for much better protection of exposure (highlights & shadows, or whites & blacks)

ND's can best be explained as sunglasses for your camera
just like us, when it's bright out and you slip on sunglasses, you can see more detail, if they're strong enough ND
Put the proper ND on your camera, and the detail comes to life

Picking proper ND, I use the sunglass technique and look thru the filters until one shows most detail to my eye, might be right, I'm not sure, but my footage is much better that way

Check out my youtube channel, Primo _NYC (there's a space between the o & _ )
I shot some high speed cruisng on a Lake with a Malibu Wakesetter with Rennat's ND'S (
)
and some slower speed wakesurfing with stock ND (
) and the detail is much better with the ND32 on a bright day, very evident on the back pad of the boat, can't see the grey detail with the stock filter at all

Good luck, have fun!!

Thank you for the first helpful response. I will give it a try and see how the higher stop ND filters work with high speed yes slowed down footage.
 
I think the problem is confusing the needs of photography with those of videography. For sports photography, you often want to freeze fast action, and need a fast shutter speed. Then you can spend as long as you want admiring the detail of a still picture.

In videography, regardless of the action, when you watch it, you are still watching video at a set frame rate. Filming your wake boarding at 30fps at 1/8000th or 1/60th shutter speed... when you playback, its still 30fps. At the fast shutter speed, during playback it will not look smooth, it will stutter, like watching a flip book. You are only capturing 30/8000th of what happens in one second, and completely missing out on 7970/8000th of what occured. That is too much missing info for human brains to process. At 1/60th shutter, it will look smooth and fluid as you are capturing 1/2 of what is happening and your brain will process it fine. You will not lose any of the fast moving action. And of course, CMOS / Rolling shutter + vibrating drone + fast shutter speed = wavy lines in a single frame otherwise known as jello.
 
The man explained in simple terms why ND filters are a MUST in the world of PROFESSIONAL video. If you don't want to use them and aren't even willing to learn something then you are trolling by still making comments. Personally i have the Renaat filters and they are great!! Happy filming, and thanks for the other filter option @Chad johnson
 
My question was not why I need ND filters, It was if using Higher stopped ND filters would benefit my main filming environemnt (on the water, filming action sports).

I contacted SRP about the ND4 / CP filter they make, which i think would be the right filter for my needs. I learned that from his posts, so thank you for that.

Is the stock ND filter considered ND2? There is very little documentation on the stock filter.
 
So I made a little video review abut my SRP filters for the Inspire 1. IMO these are the best filters available for this camera. I think they really help my image and allow me to use the proper shutter speed. The video shows you how to dial out the glare on things too.

Chad, Great video. Living here in florida a filter like this is extremely needed to keep shutter speeds at the proper numbers. We can go from Cloudy and Sunny at the same time with glare from the rain to full blast sun in a heartbeat. Its a constant struggle to keep shutter artifacts down with the stock filter.
 
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Highly recommend the SRP filters....I've been using them since my P2 and they change the way video looks in the end for the better. The stock filter is garbage. There are other options on the market but the added CP made it a no-brainer for me.
 
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