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Not an inspire but my current build...

Looks like a Tarot?

A few things to watch out for:

Check you have no sharp edges on the inside edge of the carbon tubes. Wires running through the tubes will vibrate at the exit/entry points during flight and wear through the wiring sheath. If possible, use braiding to enclose your wires at these points and then terminate the braiding with heat shrink tubing.
Check, double check (and triple check) your soldering. All joints should look shiny and nicely flowed. If any joints look dull they are probably bad/dry and need to be redone.
If you are using a PCB power distribution board and plan on using lipos in parallel. Use two separate power feeds to the PDB. This way, if a lipo fails or a solder joint fails, you still have full voltage supplied to the AC (albeit less mAh) and you will still be able to fly.
Locktite (Blue - medium strength) you screws going into you arms or use nyloc nuts on the end of the screws - they can work loose in use otherwise.

I could go on and on - I've built too many of them and have learnt the hard way all the tricks and tips along the way :rolleyes:.

Finally - when you are ready to test fly, have someone hold the craft by the landing gear above their heads. Then do all you control inputs and have the holder confirm that the craft is pitching right, left, up down etc (while holding tight to the aircraft) - It's easy to get motors wired up or RX channels wrongly mapped etc. - This failsafe test prevents mishaps like that (Hopefully)

Good luck.

btw - what flight controller are you putting in it?
 
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Looks like a Tarot?

A few things to watch out for:

Check you have no sharp edges on the inside edge of the carbon tubes. Wires running through the tubes will vibrate at the exit/entry points during flight and wear through the wiring sheath. If possible, use braiding to enclose your wires at these points and then terminate the braiding with heat shrink tubing.
Check, double check (and triple check) your soldering. All joints should look shiny and nicely flowed. If any joints look dull they are probably bad/dry and need to be redone.
If you are using a PCB power distribution board and plan on using lipos in parallel. Use two separate power feeds to the PDB. This way, if a lipo fails or a solder joint fails, you still have full voltage supplied to the AC (albeit less mAh) and you will still be able to fly.
Locktite (Blue - medium strength) you screws going into you arms or use nyloc nuts on the end of the screws - they can work loose in use otherwise.

I could go on and on - I've built too many of them and have learnt the hard way all the tricks and tips along the way :rolleyes:.

Finally - when you are ready to test fly, have someone hold the craft by the landing gear above their heads. Then do all you control inputs and have the holder confirm that the craft is pitching right, left, up down etc (while holding tight to the aircraft) - It's easy to get motors wired up or RX channels wrongly mapped etc. - This failsafe test prevents mishaps like that (Hopefully)

Good luck.

btw - what flight controller are you putting in it?


Good idea with dual PDB's. I have parallel lipos on a hex. With my palsied soldering skills I'm surprised it hasn't fallen out of the sky already. :)
 
Sorry if I forgot to respond. I went with a NAZA v2.
Ahh, OK, I've built a couple with that FC. Never given me any problems. Always been reliable.
Just remember to put in your off-set figures for x,y and z axis for GPS/Compass puck away from COG for the aircraft.
Did you use eCalc to work out your spec or are you going with a kit/recommendations?
Let me know how she flies!
 
Ahh, OK, I've built a couple with that FC. Never given me any problems. Always been reliable.
Just remember to put in your off-set figures for x,y and z axis for GPS/Compass puck away from COG for the aircraft.
Did you use eCalc to work out your spec or are you going with a kit/recommendations?
Let me know how she flies!
This is a rtf craft but w/o the transmitters and I'll let you know.
 

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