Quick question for photographer ~

fei8820 · Mar 21, 2016

i usually do industrial photo... i would like more input from professional here...
mostly i take photo from above 500 meter ( Of cause with permit from DCA Malaysia)
because the aera i cover are sooo big ... so i have no choice but to fly higher ... and as for the camera setting i may correct or i may wrong.. i just need more advices ...

as for me i always set to lower ISO = 100 so i can get less noise in the photo
the shutter speed usually more than 250 ... because i always take photo on morning... or sometimes even more...
and the colour i set it vivid ... because my clients are more like colourful look...
Does Raw files make a lot differences ? or i just stick with jpeg

my questions is do i need ND filter ? too keep my photo sharp and less Noise i am shooting with stock X3 camera.. camera facing down ofcause .. no direct to sunlight... would you guys recommand just left it auto ?
i been doing this for 1 years now... i wish to improve more of my skill for my clients...
and yes i would love to upgrade to X5 i1 2.0v2 soon.... now still saving money

any reply in this would be highly appriciated

pixl45 · Mar 21, 2016

The ND filter is less useful for still photography in the uses you describe. If you feel you are not getting enough detail in the shadow areas of your shots, it can help there -- BUT the fact that you're boosting the contrast by shooting in "vivid" mode would be partially responsible for any loss in detail you might be experiencing.

For still photography, using RAW will always give you more available depth and detail, but it wont be apparent initially -- it will look flat and lifeless until you work on it in post -- ie Lightroom. Virtually all professional photographers shoot in RAW -- this is similar to the days of film -- taking the picture is just the beginning... it's in the darkroom (Lightroom) where the magic happens.

Kilrah · Mar 21, 2016

pixl45 said:
It's in the darkroom (Lightroom) where the magic happens.

Hah, I've been using Lightroom for 8 years now and never noticed the reference

With an X3 for photo you want ISO 100 and any ND is useless as a faster shutter speed is a good thing that doesn't hurt.

timax · Mar 21, 2016

What is the end use?
Just web or print as well.
Raw will make a difference if you know how to process for best results.
Hard to say about the exposure settings. I usually just use auto and compensate the exposure up or down so i dont blow the highlights. Then process to bring the shadow detail back. There is a limit to how much you can get out of the sensor and the x5 will be better BUT you will need to know what your doing more with it and the Olympus 12 mm is narrower angle than the x3 lens so you will need to even higher for the same FOV. Personally id push the x3 to its technical limits and get as much out of it as you can . If your clients are happy then why change. Pick your light so you dont have extremes of highlight and shadow to give the camera a chance . The ND is probably useless for stills unless its extremely bright. Use it for vid to keep the shutter speed down so you get less of a vid look and more film like.
Without being rude it sounds like you could learn more about basic photography and get better results with what you have rather than trying to upgrade the camera at a huge expense.
I hear it all the time............"Wow what a great shot....What camera did you use?" Never do they comment on my 30 years of experience as a pro shooter. Just keep shooting and keep asking questions.
Cheers Tim

Kilrah · Mar 21, 2016

timax said:
Without being rude it sounds like you could learn more about basic photography and get better results with what you have rather than trying to upgrade the camera at a huge expense.
I hear it all the time............"Wow what a great shot....What camera did you use?" Never do they comment on my 30 years of experience as a pro shooter. Just keep shooting and keep asking questions.

+1.

By the way, instead of climbing ridiculously high given you want vertical photos you can also scan the area at a much lower alt, take multiple photos and stitch them in post. You can get a massive improvement in quality/detail for little extra effort when done right, all that while staying at more safety-conscious altitudes.

I've covered about 0.5km^2 in 14 photos from 150m, which took 2min30 i.e. basically less than the time you need to climb up to 500m and go back down. And got a 46 megapixel image out of it instead of a lousy 12MP.

pixl45 · Mar 21, 2016

Kilrah said:
+1.

By the way, instead of climbing ridiculously high given you want vertical photos you can also scan the area at a much lower alt, take multiple photos and stitch them in post. You can get a massive improvement in quality/detail for little extra effort when done right, all that while staying at more safety-conscious altitudes.

I've covered about 0.5km^2 in 14 photos from 150m, which took 2min30 i.e. basically less than the time you need to climb up to 500m and go back down. And got a 46 megapixel image out of it instead of a lousy 12MP.

+1

fei8820 · Mar 21, 2016

Thanks for the reply... Perhaps I shall start for rAw format shoot n see how it happen.... I use to used Adobe Photoshop for my work but I never touch light room I will goes download trial tomorrow see how is the result came out... Regarding stitches picture together... Unless I do mapping I use agesoft photoscan for the task.... N if non mapping I using auto pano giga ( for stitch together picture as panorama.... ) I will show a example Photo shoot mostly I do every week... For my contract.... Sorry that i am unable to show the real photo but is something similar above... I want to make it as best as possible for my clients...

PrimeMotivator · Mar 21, 2016

If you are used to using Photoshop use that instead of Lightroom. Shoot in RAW+JPG mode then you have both there at the same time. Use manual settings for ISO and shutter to keep the same exposure which is better for stitching photos. Check the recommended exposure then drop it down a stop or two, better for getting detail and not over exposing. Another option is to do exposure bracketing. Let the Inspire settle after stopping to take an image and if possible take two or three to allow you to choose the clearest one.

seanmclean · Mar 21, 2016

Kilrah said:
+1.

By the way, instead of climbing ridiculously high given you want vertical photos you can also scan the area at a much lower alt, take multiple photos and stitch them in post. You can get a massive improvement in quality/detail for little extra effort when done right, all that while staying at more safety-conscious altitudes.

I've covered about 0.5km^2 in 14 photos from 150m, which took 2min30 i.e. basically less than the time you need to climb up to 500m and go back down. And got a 46 megapixel image out of it instead of a lousy 12MP.

I was going to make the same suggestion. This was taken at an altitude of only 120', however appears much higher. About 80 photos or so, captured automatically in less than 10 minutes.