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Smooth Video and Correct Exposure - there has to be a way

Discussion in 'Photos and Videos' started by AMCR, Apr 15, 2015.

  1. AMCR

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    I have had my I1 for 3 days. I love flying it but the footage i am getting from camera is not very good. The main problem I am having is that when I have the exposure set correctly for the scene, the shutterspeed is so high that the footage jumps when there is movement. I like to shoot at 4k 24fps frames so the best shutterspeed would be 40 or 50 but with ISO at 100 (least light possible) the scene is so blown out that it looks terrible. I am using the ND filter that came with I1but I guess it is only a 2 stop filter so it doesn't do what I need. I have seen people saying that new ND filters are coming but there has to be a way to get decent exposure and smooth footage via this camera without add ons right? So far I am loving the bird and hating on the camera. Any help is much appreciated.
     
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  2. Kilrah

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    If you want to have shutter speed at 1/50th to have motion blur in daylight there's no other way than using a stronger ND filter. That's just physics.

    But typical aerial footage when shot as smoothly as we usually want it to be should have a low enough amount of motion for it to really matter that much.
     
  3. AMCR

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    Having apeture control would allow us to dictate the amount of light hitting the sensor without using a filter but from what I can find we don't have an apeture setting, just iso and shutter = a major thing missing from "manual mode"
    Like i mentioned I am about as newbie as it gets with the I1.
    Maybe I should phrase the question...what settings do others use for stong sunlight scenes in 4k video? Thanks again for the help and replies.
    CostaC
     
  4. gruvpix

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  5. Daniel Mascheck

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    You can find Tiffen filters in the 37mm format on Amazon. You screw them on backward but they work. Just got a polarizer and plan on using it most times. I love a polarizer for cutting glare, making the sky bluer and grass greener.
     
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  6. AMCR

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    I did a shoot for an infomercial today and decided to go without the zebra strips (overexposure monitor) and use my own eyes to gauge exposure. While some of the shot is blownout, overall it looks ok without post. I was only hired for footage, so I hope the editor knows what he is doing and is able to get the best results from the footage. I would love to see firmware that allowed us to control apeture. It would def take things to the next level with this camera.
    Love this bird it is heads above the P2. Camera... still figuring it out.
    Thanks for the info on the filters. The issue with purchasing them is that I live deep in the jungle of Costa Rica and shipping time is months. I need to find a way to get good results now if possible.
     
  7. Kilrah

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    It's a bit hard to get aperture control with an apertureless lens...

    The I1 camera uses standard M12x0.5 lens, no mechanical setting at all.
    A lens with an iris would be bigger than the whole I1 camera.
     

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  8. AMCR

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    Yep that would be hard to do! :eek: Still learning about this thing and I have a long way to go.
    For some reason when I hear manual control my mind goes to shutter speed, iso and apeture. Looks like I am buying filters!
     
  9. InspiredOne

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    Remember, 3rd party filters (with one exception mentioned above) do not have the same threads as the I1 camera lens. You run a great risk of ruining the threads on your I1's camera lens by using them.
     
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  10. The Editor

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    Zebras are your friend - Don't turn them off. Unless you are shooting with a calibrated reference monitor in ideal conditions with your eye up to an eye-cup or your head under a cover you will not be able to judge proper exposure by just looking at the screen. As you have said, some shots will be ok, others won't.
    Use your zebras and histograms and you can nail exposure every time. Thankfully with it's depth of field on the Inspire we do not have to worry about focus or we would nead peaking as well ;)
     
  11. tweaker

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    Am I missing something in stating there are NO zebras on android?
    Also how/where do you open histograms?
     
  12. The Editor

    The Editor Moderator
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    There are no zebras on Android (unfortunately) - YET.
    Histograms is under general settings (cog Wheel top right) and 'Show Histogram' :)
     
  13. AMCR

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    Update on my experiences (few as they may be)....I am getting best results shooting in 1080 at 60fps. Video seems much smoother (capture) than in 4k at 30 or 24. In fact it looks amazing. Since most of my work is for real estate and the vids are posted to youtube it works just fine for me. I have only flown 12 flights now so there are many more variations to play with but so far this is the best imo.
    I did have a hiccup today. Took off, raised the landing gear, when i looked back down at my ipad it was black. I had to reboot the app while bird was in the air. It was accepting control while blacked out and sat very still while i rushed to get the app back on. I put landing gear down and landed, rebooted everything and started over. I had a great flight but was scared to go over 300 meters away. All in all I am still gaining confindence with the I1. I love flying her but these little hiccups scare the bejeezus out of me. Anyone else have this experience?
    More flights this weekend
    Oh, the zebra strips...flew both ways today and the footage shot without is better exposed. Not saying that it is because of the ZS, i am thinking I am just don't know the best way to use them yet. Practice practice practice.
    On a last note - I have been reading a lot about people being mad about the P3 - my thoughts after flying P2s for a few years and the I1 for 12 flights is that there is no way it will be close to the I1 in performance. Yea it may have the similar features but so do Mercedes and Kias. I'll take the Mercedes and the I1 anyday.
    Paz y Pura Vida
     
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  14. The Editor

    The Editor Moderator
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    Your zebra stripes show the areas that are over exposed and blown out. With the exception of specular highlights (sun on water etc) or white clouds etc you should not really be seeing them.
    Adjust your exposure until brightly lit objects (white concrete paths/buildings in the direct sun etc) are JUST starting to zebra, then back off until they are on the threshold of being visable in these areas. You should have excellent exposure then.
    Basically, with a few exceptions you should not be seeing zebras while shooting as these areas will be over 100% and blown out. Once blown out the detail is unrecoverable in post.
     
    #14 The Editor, Apr 18, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2015
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  15. Filsonian

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    I just bought a set of Snake River Prototyping Filters for my I1 and I love them.
    i1 Series Filters
     
  16. Hholthof

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