Battery Mod Info
- Thread starter damoncooper
- Start date
- Status
There’s my power plug on the side.
Attachments
I'm not sure I would recommend you soldering the batteries if you're not comfortable doing it on the aircraft. The way I see it, soldering the batteries is much more dangerous since it is live where as the aircraft is not (when there's no battery). If redundancy is important, consider the inability for the aux battery to power the craft if for some reason your main battery comes loose. Anyway, to each his own, I just think soldering to the aircraft is the no brainer here (especially since you won't have to do it for each battery.
You'll need to wire the 3S batteries in series, so you'll effectively have 3600mah but you're misunderstanding how this is going to work. If you want a "reserve" power for emergency landings, it just depends on when that happens. Both your main and aux batteries will deplete simultaneously. Let's pretend they both drain at the same rate (they won't but close enough), so if you are flying with 30% batteries left, you might have plenty of juice to fly around a bit, fly home, and land. But if your main battery craps out there, you'll only have theoretically 30% of your aux batteries, which might not be enough to get home then. Weight-wise, you can look at what everyone else is using but I am around the 600-700g mark with one battery. I don't understand why people insist on using two 3S batteries when the mAH-to-weight ratio is more favorable for running a single 6S rather than two 3S batteries. Not to mention less wiring and less things to charge individually.
I run a 5200mAH 6S with a TB48. I get 30 mins easily.
Would it be possible to cut the battery frame off of the aircraft making room for 2x TB48 side by side while still clearing the props? (minus their white caps so they'll fit close next to each other)
Well my eyes are turning square i have read so much about this now.
I wanted to mod a v2 x5r and want a honest answer of what people suggest if the best set-up for it?
I have a tb47 i am going to mod and was thinking of using 2 6s 2500ish capacity so i am roughly doubling capacity. On a x5 what kind of result will this bring?
I have seen 3000 3s hiliv packs are cheap too so does it matter if you run two 3s or 6s?
Thanks
Mick
I wanted to mod a v2 x5r and want a honest answer of what people suggest if the best set-up for it?
I have a tb47 i am going to mod and was thinking of using 2 6s 2500ish capacity so i am roughly doubling capacity. On a x5 what kind of result will this bring?
I have seen 3000 3s hiliv packs are cheap too so does it matter if you run two 3s or 6s?
Thanks
Mick
Last edited:
How do the adapters work Niki pal? We are about to give this a go too.
From a little digging i am definitely leaning towards a 6600 set-up, if i can get it mounted behind the vps unit. But equally so i may need to look at a duel set up based on what works with the x5r
Thanks
Mick
Last edited:
Hi Mick, I only used it once to prove that the concept works in case I need longer flight time and I think it is a nice solution for the connection instead of soldering wires and modify hardware.
Do you have to open the battery up pal or just fit the adapter to the terminals?
I can not decide which way to go. There is not much info at all as regards the x5r and which set-up works best. On top of that where the heck do you get the batteries from? HK is out of stock and apparently dont ship larger batts anymore and nowhere else sells them. I wonder could i use standard lipos and not lihv for a twin 3300 6s setup?
So many questions lol
We need this set-up for an upcoming project that will need more time in the air for mapping. Its European funded by i doubt they will let us get a new drone on the budget lol
You don't have to use LiHV for the auxiliary batteries, normal LiPo will still give you extended flight time.
I've said this before but I believe soldering is the best way because there's no risk of your adapter coming off for any reason. The adapter sandwiches between the battery and the aircraft and you plug your auxiliaries in. It's kind of a friction fit, which I think is not the best idea given how the inspire batteries are locked into the aircraft (with those little press tabs that aren't all that secure).
Did you tried the adapter? From what you're saying it look you never had it in your hands.
It's not staying there only on friction, it's hooked up to the battery and in between the battery and inspires body.
Last edited:
I'm usually shoping from locals if the european HK doesnt have what I look for. In Europe you can try order from
Gens ace Lipo battery - Gens Ace
Thanks for the help pal. I think i am going to try some 3300 6s Nano-techs as i have game them some serious abuse 3d flying over the years and those packs are still going strong now
Im loving the 6s factor now as well as it means i finally have an excuse to build a 30cc electric set-up although it may end up 12s
I used to have a 60" EF 5s set-up and it was a monster
Last edited:
Right, so friction. In any case, it's not as secure as soldered wires, which was my point.
Thats not really friction though is it if it is sandwiched between two areas. Its more held by a plastic clamping system. Granted its potentially not as secure as a good solder joint but it doesn't have to be and its offers fantastic versatility around swapping batts.
Your batt mounting brackets are the most important load bearing item.
- Status
Similar threads
