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Battery Mod Info

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2 X Thunder Power 2700 6S 25C have proven one of the best so far.

You can gut a DJI battery and replace its cells with higher capacity but getting the pack PCB to recognize the larger capacity is problematic. Richard is working on a solution for that if he cares to share.

Now you come to my word :) Telling u from the first step...

Get well soon :)
 
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Just finishing standard mod placement and wire guiding to avoid sensors on the Pro Black while I await parts from China for the extended mod. Love the black wire and XT60 connectors. Using the X5 mount as a wire guide away from VPS.


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Multistar 4A 3S (2x in serie) report:
Almost identical discharge in %. Nearly 24 min. Not bad for depleted TB48 battery. Additonal weight 500gram. Guess this is max add. weight for original props and V1 motors.?

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Damoncooper! Did you solder your power leads to the inspire1 battery post or to the battery smart board ??
 
Damoncooper! Did you mod your battery the same way as page 1 illustrated? I ready and want to try it . Another guy told me you should solder to the board.
 
First off I'm a long time reader of this thread (still haven't read everything yet so please give me a break if it has been mentioned before) and new to inspire and to quad copters in general lol. Just bought a used one online :)

Anyway, I noticed everyone is saying to wire the auxiliary battery leads to the dji battery itself. Why? From the photos and a tear down video of the dji battery, you are wiring directly to the output anyway... Would save some big hassle making multiple battery mods vs a one time wiring right on the AC and adding a comparator circuit to prevent auxiliary batt from powering on the AC prematurely and voltage matching (with vdrop buffer) so as not to tax the dji battery when using standard 4.25v vs 4.35v cells at start of flight.

Also, reading from posts people are having issues with the dji battery depleting too early causing automatic landing. Isn't it possible to build a circuit to switch between packs? IE modify the power lead on the AC such that power from the dji battery will trigger auxiliary to supply power first. Then, at a predetermined voltage, switch to the dji pack. Redundancy can be achieved by maintaining a reserve voltage on the auxiliary pack.

Just a thought. I have no experience in building any of these things, but I do enjoy the read. Going to be learning how to fly the inspire next week, hopefully I won't crash it..

Happy modding everyone!
 
First off I'm a long time reader of this thread (still haven't read everything yet so please give me a break if it has been mentioned before) and new to inspire and to quad copters in general lol. Just bought a used one online :)

Anyway, I noticed everyone is saying to wire the auxiliary battery leads to the dji battery itself. Why? From the photos and a tear down video of the dji battery, you are wiring directly to the output anyway... Would save some big hassle making multiple battery mods vs a one time wiring right on the AC and adding a comparator circuit to prevent auxiliary batt from powering on the AC prematurely and voltage matching (with vdrop buffer) so as not to tax the dji battery when using standard 4.25v vs 4.35v cells at start of flight.

Also, reading from posts people are having issues with the dji battery depleting too early causing automatic landing. Isn't it possible to build a circuit to switch between packs? IE modify the power lead on the AC such that power from the dji battery will trigger auxiliary to supply power first. Then, at a predetermined voltage, switch to the dji pack. Redundancy can be achieved by maintaining a reserve voltage on the auxiliary pack.

Just a thought. I have no experience in building any of these things, but I do enjoy the read. Going to be learning how to fly the inspire next week, hopefully I won't crash it..

Happy modding everyone!

Definitely. However, to do an AC mod properly you'd need to solder onto the back of the AC terminal board. That requires a virtual full disassembly of the aircraft. A few guys have done it but it's not for the faint of heart, and you run a decent risk of not getting everything back together again exactly the way it was. It's a roughly 8-12+ hour job I'm told, for an experienced modder.

Hence, for the masses, at least, a battery mod is much simpler and doesn't require any aircraft mods. You can go stock anytime by popping in an unmodified battery.

The circuit idea sounds cool. Bring it on!
 
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Definitely. However, to do an AC mod properly you'd need to solder onto the back of the AC terminal board. That requires a virtual full disassembly of the aircraft. A few guys have done it but it's not for the faint of heart, and you run a decent risk of not getting everything back together again exactly the way it was. It's a roughly 8-12+ hour job I'm told, for an experienced modder.

Hence, for the masses, at least, a battery mod is much simpler and doesn't require any aircraft mods. You can go stock anytime by popping in an unmodified battery.

The circuit idea sounds cool. Bring it on!

I will try to make one.
i do have some help with soldering and microprocessing. growning up in a cable harness manufactury flatband cables or something that will work can not be so hard to source.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I will try to make one.
i do have some help with soldering and microprocessing. growning up in a cable harness manufactury flatband cables or something that will work can not be so hard to source.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I took a gander at the power distribution board with my recently acquired used inspire. From quick check with multimeter you can tie into the two pairs of cables that supply power to the motors (they had zero resistance between terminal posts) You can tap right at the board or tap the cables themselves either outside or inside (preferred) the tee that holds the arms and routes the cables. So you want to give it a shot? Lol.

Better yet, you could also remove the stick-on cushion on the board and solder to the terminal posts' solder points if you have thin bus bar that can handle the current (maybe similar to battery tabs?) and some surface mount solder. Only issue with these connections is you cannot truly isolate the original battery pack since it will be supplying power to the other components regardless. Still, you will have a tidy AC if done right. FYI I don't do anything right, so I just might blow my investment up before its maiden flight... Snowing in spring up here...
 

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Just thought about the idea of using a regular 6s lipo warner (which can be programmed on single lowest cell voltage to trigger), so this way we know when the aux battery is empty. The switch would be between the cables to supply the motors - stated as in the last post (which draws the most current), the electronics would still run on the TB Battery, we would just cut off the motorsupply and run this with the aux battery until they would be depleted, then switch back to TB Battery. So use the warners output to trigger a small bistable relay to trigger a high current relay to switch between packs. You start on aux battery. Once the warner goes off it will permanently switch back to TB Battery(bistable) a reset switch would allow to switch back to aux battery after landing or before a new start. Put everything in a small box with some LED's for Status of the bistable relays. Would be a easy and simple solution. What do u guys think - would this work?
 
Just thought about the idea of using a regular 6s lipo warner (which can be programmed on single lowest cell voltage to trigger), so this way we know when the aux battery is empty. The switch would be between the cables to supply the motors - stated as in the last post (which draws the most current), the electronics would still run on the TB Battery, we would just cut off the motorsupply and run this with the aux battery until they would be depleted, then switch back to TB Battery. So use the warners output to trigger a small bistable relay to trigger a high current relay to switch between packs. You start on aux battery. Once the warner goes off it will permanently switch back to TB Battery(bistable) a reset switch would allow to switch back to aux battery after landing or before a new start. Put everything in a small box with some LED's for Status of the bistable relays. Would be a easy and simple solution. What do u guys think - would this work?

Yes, I had similar idea, though components differ. Plus you still need a few more components if you want some redundancy in case the main craps out on you (be mindful of voltage differences between TB and AUX as they will be common grounded). Gotta keep these add ons as light as possible for extended flight and maneuverability as well. Good luck!
 
And if you looking to go with the thunder power 2700 mah batteries don't hold your breath. Ordered 2 last wensday and just call them they (may) make them up in a couple weeks lol I guess they don't stock much so turn around will be around a month before you get your order
 
I took a gander at the power distribution board with my recently acquired used inspire. From quick check with multimeter you can tie into the two pairs of cables that supply power to the motors (they had zero resistance between terminal posts) You can tap right at the board or tap the cables themselves either outside or inside (preferred) the tee that holds the arms and routes the cables. So you want to give it a shot? Lol.

Better yet, you could also remove the stick-on cushion on the board and solder to the terminal posts' solder points if you have thin bus bar that can handle the current (maybe similar to battery tabs?) and some surface mount solder. Only issue with these connections is you cannot truly isolate the original battery pack since it will be supplying power to the other components regardless. Still, you will have a tidy AC if done right. FYI I don't do anything right, so I just might blow my investment up before its maiden flight... Snowing in spring up here...
btw. how did you get that board off? Don't you have to take the whole copter apart for this? Is it possible to unplug all this stuff without removing the stuff behind it like landing spiral, ... You got another picture of the process above?
 
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