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Battery Mod Info

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btw. how did you get that board off? Don't you have to take the whole copter apart for this? Is it possible to unplug all this stuff without removing the stuff behind it like landing spiral, ... You got another picture of the process above?

No need to dismantle the entire quad, that's just silly. Just take off the skin, raise the landing gear manually (flight position, turn worm gear screw), pop 6 cables out (you can pull away the flexible plastic guard that is taped to the battery frame for more clearance). Finally unscrew the board. The only thing holding it will be the 4 leads to the motors but you will have enough room to snip them off (landing gear raised) and extend after if you so choose. Or just unplug them at the tee (did not go this far, speculating).

I need to fly my inspire a few times first before I blow it up with mods... I'll be sure to take more pics when that time comes unless someone else can do the teardown. Good luck!
 
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No need to dismantle the entire quad, that's just silly. Just take off the skin, raise the landing gear manually (flight position, turn worm gear screw), pop 6 cables out (you can pull away the flexible plastic guard that is taped to the battery frame for more clearance). Finally unscrew the board. The only thing holding it will be the 4 leads to the motors but you will have enough room to snip them off (landing gear raised) and extend after if you so choose. Or just unplug them at the tee (did not go this far, speculating).

I need to fly my inspire a few times first before I blow it up with mods... I'll be sure to take more pics when that time comes unless someone else can do the teardown. Good luck!
Thanks! Now that can be called useful information. Will definitely do this over a battery mod, doesn't even sound like more work than a battery mod, Just to connect the aux batterys by soldering a cable with 1-2 XT60 plugs to get started into modding. Once the experience raises maybe go for the controlled battery drain mod. I love this thread and wanna say thanks to all the big contributors like damoncooper, who spent a lot of time, money and effort for more airtime for all of us. Thanks for the inspiration.
 
Thanks! Now that can be called useful information. Will definitely do this over a battery mod, doesn't even sound like more work than a battery mod, Just to connect the aux batterys by soldering a cable with 1-2 XT60 plugs to get started into modding. Once the experience raises maybe go for the controlled battery drain mod. I love this thread and wanna say thanks to all the big contributors like damoncooper, who spent a lot of time, money and effort for more airtime for all of us. Thanks for the inspiration.

Document and post pics as you go guys! Looking forward to your work.
 
If you have to remove the vps due to where this comes out its not viable for those who fly inside factories as we use the vps . Also you loose the auto landing gear rising and lowering. As a pilot if retractable gear planes it's been said there are those who or those who will land gear up!
 
No, I can put the VPS back in 1 Minute without altering anything. I just took it off to have more place for the extra battery.
 
Its all internal, you cant see anything, other than the cable coming out at the bottom.

i did take my I1 apart due to a part repair. it is indeed not so hard. but could you do some picks on where to solder on the board. like someone asked for a "how to" like damon posted on the battery mods in the first post.
 
If you connected the backup packs to the main board would the go app still see the extra batteries? As they would be connected after the dji battery circuit board?
 
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Go app doesn't see extra batteries regardless of battery or AC mod
Sorry I probably didn't explain it correctly, what I meant to ask is will the app still reflect the extra flight time's. Is connecting the batteries direct to the inspire any different than doing the battery mods?
 
Just thought about the idea of using a regular 6s lipo warner (which can be programmed on single lowest cell voltage to trigger), so this way we know when the aux battery is empty. The switch would be between the cables to supply the motors - stated as in the last post (which draws the most current), the electronics would still run on the TB Battery, we would just cut off the motorsupply and run this with the aux battery until they would be depleted, then switch back to TB Battery. So use the warners output to trigger a small bistable relay to trigger a high current relay to switch between packs. You start on aux battery. Once the warner goes off it will permanently switch back to TB Battery(bistable) a reset switch would allow to switch back to aux battery after landing or before a new start. Put everything in a small box with some LED's for Status of the bistable relays. Would be a easy and simple solution. What do u guys think - would this work?
And when this relays as a failure , say by by to AC lol.
 
Guys, I had it done professionally in a shop. I can post more pics, but you will see nothing at all. Thats the beauty of it. All the cable run internally, the only thing you see is what I posted already.
 
Go app doesn't see extra batteries regardless of battery or AC mod
It doesnt see the batteries but it does show the remaining flight time correctly. Counting down from 25 mins though. Lets you have 30 mins flight time it will stay at 25 mins for 5 mins then count down correctly.
 
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