@damoncooper I have just tried Thunder Power batteries in my P3 as aux batteries, and was disappointed. They are very expensive; they are light; but they don't seem to perform any better than other batteries. These were LiPO batteries though, as they don't have any LiHVs under 3500 mAh, so maybe you will be luckier...
Battery Mod Info
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Well I got this on two of their 2700's. Highest quality best performing batteries I've ever used. Your mileage will vary I guess.
Thunder Power RC TP2700-6SP+25
I have exactly the same ones, but in 4S. On the P3, the payload is less than with the Inspire, so every gram counts. Although they are 2700, they perform a little worse than 2400 LiHVs from Hyperion G6 (30/60C). The Hyperions weigh only 210 grams, while the TPs weigh 259 grams. That's probably the reason.
Yeah 2700 X 2 4S (5400mah) on a P3 seems like waay over the top. I would think you'd want to be in the 1:1 neighborhood with the DJI battery? Ie 2 X 2000-2200mah 4S
Hi Damon , is it must to have the power supply tp1527ps for charging the Tp3500? If yes, why? And how do use it?
I have already ordered the 2700's (4) and the tp820hvc.
You need a power supply of some kind yes. It just plugs in the wall on one end and into the TP charger at the other end.
Their HV-capable charger (which you have already ordered) is needed to charge Thunder Power LiHV batteries like the ones I listed as they use a proprietary balance plug.
The TP 2700's are amazing batteries and they will serve you well. I'll probably load up on those myself
Just read my 6th report of folks on FW 1.6 having their aircraft power cut out and fall out of the sky.
Very disturbing.
The only way to guarantee protection against the crappy DJI batteries and firmware is to do a battery mod. Even if the main battery shuts down, your aircraft will continue flying in aux power.
If it happens you'll see a very scary looking "critical battery error", all battery telemetry will disappear BUT you'll keep flying.
Land ASAP, but safely.
Very disturbing.
The only way to guarantee protection against the crappy DJI batteries and firmware is to do a battery mod. Even if the main battery shuts down, your aircraft will continue flying in aux power.
If it happens you'll see a very scary looking "critical battery error", all battery telemetry will disappear BUT you'll keep flying.
Land ASAP, but safely.
Hi Damon, I think that I did not understand the way it's works, I thought that the aux bat charging the main bat, all the way til it's runs out, ones the main as failed how the current can keep on circulate directly from the aux to the inspire?
No they discharge in parallel. If main shuts down, the aux batteries and wired past the logic board (which cuts the DJI's discharge when it shuts off), but the aux batteries remain connected to the aircraft power system and that's how it keeps the aircraft supplied with power in the event the DJI battery disappears.
Can I ask the battery experts here a simple question? I have about 10 aux (LiPO and LiHV) batteries for my P3. When I don't use them, I charge them down to storage mode (3.85V/cell).
Now I'm going away and taking only 1 charger. Sometimes I need 6 or 8 of these at once, and charging them up fully would take too long. Can I charge them up to a different voltage, closer to full, without any problems? They might stay unused for up to 8 days though. I once left a battery full for 10 days and it got all puffed. So I'm wary to do this... Any tips?
Now I'm going away and taking only 1 charger. Sometimes I need 6 or 8 of these at once, and charging them up fully would take too long. Can I charge them up to a different voltage, closer to full, without any problems? They might stay unused for up to 8 days though. I once left a battery full for 10 days and it got all puffed. So I'm wary to do this... Any tips?
There are good dual port chargers out there. I just bought one myself (Thunder Power). Being em to 60% I think that should be fine.
I have a dual port charger (SkyRC D100), but I'm going away and am just taking the smallest charger I have, as we have not much luggage space...
60% is about 3.85 or 3.90 V/cell. So that's what I am doing already.
I thought maybe I could go to 4 or 4.05 or 4.10 without doing any damage, and leave them for 10 days like that. But not sure...
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I would like to know if its the FW in the inspire (1.6) or the FW in the battery (1.6) that is making this happen? You can roll back the UAV, but not the batteries. Or is the cold penetrating the cells that are on the outside of the battery and making the battery think its critical time due to the cold? If so the wrap around warmer "thing" that Damon made would be the ideal answer. Or is it just poor battery maintenance on the operators/owners side and they are reporting it as different now when the bird comes down?
It's firmware induced. There have been people flying 1.6 batteries in older FW birds, and that works fine.
It is something do with the chemical reactions inside the battery. when you have poor battery the situation will be even worst !
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So you think roll back to 1.5 on the bird then?...I hate to fix something that is not really broken for me...Tons of flights on 1.6 in the cold and no probs..but then again im a stickler on my flying weather.
Might be ok or you might burn your house down or damage your batteries. Better to be safe than sorry with lipos
My advice:
1) do a battery mod and have redundancy.
2) If you can't do that at least keep your battery temp in the Goldilocks zone before and throughout flight. Various ways to do that but the DJI batteries are weaklings in terms of discharge capability (8-10C). It doesn't take much to get them to sag.
Preferably do a battery mod. Then you are protected from weak batteries and crappy DJI firmware.
Goldilocks zone 20C - 40C:
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