Just got an email that TP has another sale on if anyone has been wanting to pick up batteries. 40% off. Code: SPRING16
Battery Mod Info
- Thread starter damoncooper
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Hi John, sorry for what may seem like a stupid question but if all the STO adapters have only CW thread, how is it possible to install them on Inspires since they have CW and CCW threads on the motors?
My understanding is that all versions of the Inspire's motors have CW and CCW threads. Even if there are Inspires with motors that only have CW threads, you can't install CW and CCW adapters on those with only CW motor threads. Am I missing something? Please correct me if I'm mistaken.
Their base plate bolts onto the motor bell with screws. Then the base plate threads onto the plate attached to the prop. Apparently only CW for all.
Ahh.. That explains it. I ended up getting the LP adapters so I thought it was a similar system and couldn't understand how the STO adapters with all CW threads could be mounted on the Inspire's motors with CCW threading. Thanks Damon.
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Disappointed addition of pair of Turnigy 1.5's only gave me another 2 minutes or so (with X5), that's down to 10%, so not a usable 2 minutes. Ordered some zippy 2200's.
I seem to have lost the "LifeTime" in the go app... Am I missing something here?
I seem to have lost the "LifeTime" in the go app... Am I missing something here?
I'm still waiting on mine :/. Probably should have paid for faster shipping, but I'm on a budget... My inspire was 1500 usd with 10 cycles on the battery so lyn phan prop system would be quite a splurge (that kind of money buys you a 3d printer! Which I did lol). Will have to place a paypal dispute by Thursday (45 day limit) if props don't arrive. First time buying from that site and it's already worse than eBay. Not a single notification that the item was shipped.
Anyway, made myself some battery mounts to center the batteries as close as possible. Just need to test it out and see if it holds up. Running 3s2p 3ah Turnigy Graphene about 484g with mounts 426g without on TB47. I should do hover time to compare with everyone here, been just flying with aux batteries velcroed to the TB47 thus far. Getting best time of 17m:36s to orange mark on dji go app set at 30 percent including about 1m:30s of hovering time and rising too 100m. Flew 10.476km (max distance from controller was 1.97km) in 10 degree celcius and no noticeable winds. Total flight time was 21min to 10 percent with another 800m added flying around the home point with lots of braking. Still pretty agile with these batteries velcroed hitting over 18m/s on p-gps in one flight.
do's anyone have the how to tutorial
on putting battery mod in the inspire and not the batterys
on putting battery mod in the inspire and not the batterys
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^^ I did the batteries as the I1 is still in warranty. I modded 7 TB48's in a couple of hours - it's no big deal. Did one start to finish beforehand, establish a 'process'..
Here's what I did, couple of bits I did I haven't seen elsewhere.
Pop the lid off.
Undo 4 screws & detach board.
Cut hole and enlarge (dremel 3.2mm endmill). I left 2-2.5mm material between bottom of hole (slot) and edge.
Butcher side of case down to pcb level where wires will exit. (dremel same cutter)
Remove tape and clean board - remove blue stuff. (5mm brass wire brush on dremel) battery IS off (;>)
Solder wires. Tin board and wires first and it will all flow nicely. I used 40W with spade tip. Keep wires absolutely flat. Pin the wire down in place with something non-metallic before actually soldering. Route +ve towards the back.
Replace board and do up four screws
Re-tape exposed connections / pcb.
Lid back on.
Check continuity / resistance with multimeter
Fill void at side where cable is with hot melt.
I used 14swg silicon wire.
There was no need to 'raise' the board by hacking the mounts, the top popped back on perfectly.
About 20 minutes or so each.
Here's what I did, couple of bits I did I haven't seen elsewhere.
Pop the lid off.
Undo 4 screws & detach board.
Cut hole and enlarge (dremel 3.2mm endmill). I left 2-2.5mm material between bottom of hole (slot) and edge.
Butcher side of case down to pcb level where wires will exit. (dremel same cutter)
Remove tape and clean board - remove blue stuff. (5mm brass wire brush on dremel) battery IS off (;>)
Solder wires. Tin board and wires first and it will all flow nicely. I used 40W with spade tip. Keep wires absolutely flat. Pin the wire down in place with something non-metallic before actually soldering. Route +ve towards the back.
Replace board and do up four screws
Re-tape exposed connections / pcb.
Lid back on.
Check continuity / resistance with multimeter
Fill void at side where cable is with hot melt.
I used 14swg silicon wire.
There was no need to 'raise' the board by hacking the mounts, the top popped back on perfectly.
About 20 minutes or so each.
Yes and you can bring it back to stock look easily if need be by desoldering your work. Just take your time at it and use flux to get that solder to stick. You can get away with 14awg since you are load sharing and it's a pretty short run.
I sure did. It was my first custom modeled print from my first 3d printer. 3 parts per side. One alignment plate, one bolt on battery holder with slide in friction fit and one set of bolt and nut thumb covers for tooless attachment to the inspire. Still need good no rain weather to test it's durability. Down side is can't use this on an x5, but I don'the have an x5 so no biggie lol.
Here are some shots of the holder for those interested in making their own custom one for their battery type.
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I just did a hover test today, achieved 30:22 minutes and it was quite windy at times, I have an Inspire 1 - X3 camera and newly added Lynh Phan adapters with 14x4.8 Carbon Fiber T-Motor props. Landed at 10% and 9% left in auxiliary battery. I had done a 100% throttle test with my setup on page 46 of this thread which has pictures of single battery configuration. Off topic, I'm on newest firmware and moving camera with your finger on iPad is way too fast, very sensitive, is there any way to make it slower?
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That's a great flight time the longest we have achieved has been 33 minutes and 2seconds. flying the X.3 camera. If you want to slow down the gimbal you go in to the camera advanced settings and slow down the gimbal wheel speed
I have Gimbal wheel speed set at 40 which is good, I'm talking about when you hold your finger on the screen to manipulate the gimbal.
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