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Battery Mod Info

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dear mad angler :) here are the pics i promissed
View attachment 6546View attachment 6547

hope they are ok. if not i will make some pics with my nikon for you or under our video microscope :)
let me know.
cheers


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Top man thank you, I'm specifically Interested in the RH side of the top picture around the 4 large transistors in a row, are there any PN on them do you know ? Are the tracks visible on the PCB

Again really appreciate it [emoji3]




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ok, I made some pics under the video microscope we have with 0.5 times magnification I think. (pretty close). :D
I am in a meeting at the moment and did not have the time to stitch it together for you in PS but I want from left to right from pic 1 aka kep 1 -17.
the last ones are the RH side you mention... missed it the first time and that is why I did the left first.. :D

hope this helps. if you need closeups - even more I can go lower to 5 times magnification :D I think 7.5 is the max I can at the moment I think.

here we go :D
 

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and the 7 left overs :) which are the RH side. from top right to bottom right moving into - to the left of the PCB

i will put them together for you in PS and put up a pic for you once I can sit down and scan the whole pcb.
 

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here is a left side stitch.
you can if you have PS or paint do the same with the right side (takes a little) but it is duable. I am not sure from which pic no the left side starts though. I did a pretty big overlap though. once you put them all on the screen you can see where to put them together. - but if you can wait a bit I will scan the whole pcb and and you can zoom in apart from the more close version I will be stitching together for us here.
 

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I sent woot a few images of how to take apart the battery boards etc. He can post them if he wishes. However it didn't matter if you have a wired empty cage, as the boards stll show only the 4500 or5700 ma to the app even if you have 12000 mah batts connected.
 
I sent woot a few images of how to take apart the battery boards etc. He can post them if he wishes. However it didn't matter if you have a wired empty cage, as the boards stll show only the 4500 or5700 ma to the app even if you have 12000 mah batts connected.
do you need more detail? :D
i wish i could make a board like this. the theory is simple but the communication with the app will be almost imposible if not totally.
dji could release or make a battery where you can connect an aux - like damon did - and it would show the sum of mAh connected. i do not think that would negatively impact on DJI. foremost if they make their own. but even third party batteries like TP would also benefit.


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For anyone that has worked with PCB's and soldering, I would love to hear your take on these images. I am not a professional but have reasonably decent soldering skills with good equipment (Hakko soldering and desoldering stations) and enough time fooling with soldering PCB's to have a prosumer opinion.

That quality of that PCB is average at best. The traces are inconsistent and I saw a few potential cold solder joints. KEP 1 bottom left, KEP 5 (look at the traces), KEP 9 above Q15....just to name a few. Upper left of the stitched image above TXD looks like the pad was overheated, bottom left under Q2 looks like fractured cold solder and all three pins bottom middle above U5 appear to have bonding issues. Would love to see an angled shot with a macro lens. I wouldnt trust my bird's life on that particular board just based on bonding and continuity.
 
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For anyone that has worked with PCB's and soldering, I would love to hear your take on these images. I am not a professional but have reasonably decent soldering skills with good equipment (Hakko soldering and desoldering stations) and enough time fooling with soldering PCB's to have a prosumer opinion.

That quality of that PCB is average at best. The traces are inconsistent and I saw a few potential cold solder joints. KEP 1 bottom left, KEP 5 (look at the traces), KEP 9 above Q15....just to name a few. Upper left of the stitched image above TXD looks like the pad was overheated, bottom left under Q2 looks like fractured cold solder and all three pins bottom middle above U5 appear to have bonding issues. Would love to see an angled shot with a macro lens. I wouldnt trust my bird's life on that particular board just based on bonding and continuity.
MrDRC please note that i had a fall with the bird onto the battery and it is bent a little. i can't tell cold solder points just wanted to let you know. i can make a shot from the side for you, no problem. hold on please.


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Here are images of battery tear down steps and rewire to empty cage

Bloody hell...that board is a disaster.

EDIT: I really dont need to see any further images. Despite having no issues with my new Inspire I am not flying again without backup power or re-soldering those pins. If these images are representative of the boards that put our birds life in their hands, no thanks. That is crap quality.
 

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Bloody hell...that board is a disaster.

EDIT: I really dont need to see any further images. Despite having no issues with my new Inspire I am not flying again without backup power or re-soldering those pins. If these images are representative of the boards that put our birds life in their hands, no thanks. That is crap quality.

Battery Mods R Us. Redundancy with trusted, brand name, 25C+ LiPos are essential safety gear in my opinion, I couldn't agree more.

Do it yourself instructions are linked on the first page of this thread.

Even if DJI copies our ideas and allows for redundant batteries in a future Inspire version, I don't trust their quality control nor their execution ability to nor their motives. I don't want more sub-standard "smart" DJI batteries wired together, I want high quality, higher C, triple redundancy without any over priced proprietary "smart" logic that is as likely to fail as the current batteries.

They will never deliver that so keep up the good work guys. We can keep our Inspire's flying even if DJI's batteries are OFF.
 
Battery Mods R Us. Redundancy with trusted, brand name, 25C+ LiPos are essential safety gear in my opinion, I couldn't agree more.

Do it yourself instructions are linked on the first page of this thread.

Yup, I downloaded the pdf a while back but haven't received my packs from TP yet.

I'm now thinking these cell failures might be more attributed to this PCB that connects all the cells. Those solder joints are just a failure waiting to happen. Hell, flux might be the only thing providing continuity and its only a matter of time before it loses is conductivity. The proverbial smoking gun might have just appeared.

That image is after removing cells and pins... See next after balancing wires in

OK...whew...that makes me feel a little better but Im going to examine mine very closely before flying again.
 
Who solder joints are not that way until you remove the cells from the board! DJi whores do not look that way until after they've been hacked

Again, that does make me feel better about the connection board but the images Phatzo posted still leave me questioning the reliability and quality of the smart PCB and possible bonding issues/solder joints.
 
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